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Last Updated: March 24, 2021
I have Mad Hatter’s solderless guitar electronics in nearly all my guitars now, and have been using their guitar wiring upgrades since I discovered them 3 years ago, when I learned that Steve Vai had a Mad Hatter kit installed in his #1 guitar: Evo. After the install, Steve said “It’s like you gave Evo a bigger set of lungs.” (see the Evo install video here).
After I installed my very first Mad Hatter system, I was really impressed by the tone improvement and ease of installation (remember, zero solder needed). I’ll tell you more about Mad Hatter’s products at the very end of this post. For now, I’d like to jump right into the upgrade, so let’s get to it!
Currently, Snow is wired in a very simple configuration I’ve used almost exclusively for over 10 years now on all my guitars: single volume control only, with a 3-way pickup selector. All 3 switch positions are full humbucking.
Here’s a diagram of what that looks like:
For years, this simple setup has worked well for me because 90% of my guitar playing has been overdriven heavy metal, and little else. However, I’ve lately been playing more clean stuff, and would like some glassy, single coil tones at my disposal. So, in addition to overall better components (and better tone), I’ll be changing my pickup selector to a 5-way switch and wiring it for coil-splitting in positions 2 and 4.
Here’s what that’ll look like when I’m finished:
With this new wiring scheme, I’ll still have the same 3 full-humbucking options that I’ve always had, but with the addition of 2 more positions (positions 2 and 4 in the diagram above) that’ll give me a couple nice “ultra clean” tones thanks to coil-splitting my humbuckers.
The best thing about this whole procedure is…
I’ll be doing it all without one drop of solder!
Whatever kit you order will include a detailed wiring diagram and all the components you need for the wiring/switching configuration you’re after, including any tone caps (capacitors), pots, toggles, and even kill switches (if you wish).
100% Solderless Guitar Wiring Kits
You should install a Mad Hatter kit, first and foremost, for the big improvement in tone that’ll result. However, the fact that all components are 100% solderless is a big added benefit if you don’t like to (or don’t know how to) solder.
Where Are the Tone Caps, You Ask?
Since my configuration doesn’t have a tone pot, there’s no need for a capacitor in my kit. Otherwise, Mad Hatter solderless systems will always include one or more capacitors as needed. You can also use your own capacitors with these systems. So if you have some rare Russian capacitor that you smuggled over during the Cold War, you can use it. Since these systems are completely solderless, you can easily swap capacitors, pickups, etc. and experiment to really dial-in your tone.
Next, I remove the volume knob and then unscrew the retaining nut from the pot’s shaft…
After the volume knob and 3-way switch are free, they’ll fall slightly into the control compartment. So, I flip the guitar over and remove the backplates to expose the electronics…
All the necessary bolts and screws holding in my electronics are gone, so it’s time to disconnect the parts from the pickup lead wires as well as the bridge ground so I can completely remove the old volume pot, 3-way switch, and output jack…
Installing the Output Jack
Now, I’ll install the Mad Hatter solderless output jack and tape its wires out of my way for now…
Installing the 5-Way Pickup Selector
Next I’m going to install my solderless 5-way OakGrigsby pickup selector…
Quick Tip: Support the Guitar Properly
I’d like to pause for a second and talk about how important it is that the guitar isn’t just lying flat on its face. This whole time, I’ve had my guitar propped up on a neck support so that neither the bridge nor any of the switches have any weight pushing on them while the guitar is face-down…
Note: My guitar has stainless steel frets, so I’m not the slightest bit concerned about the strings potentially denting the fretwire while they’re resting on the neck rest like this. However, if you have standard (non-stainless) fretwire, you might want to slip something between the strings and frets in that spot just as a precaution. It’s not likely that you’ll dent your frets, but better safe than sorry.
Connecting the Bridge Ground Wire(s)
Now I’m going to make my very first connections by connecting the ground wires. Look ma, no solder!
Connecting the Volume Pot
Once that’s done, I get to work making all necessary connections to the volume pot.
Pro Tip: For components like this one, where the solderless terminal is attached directly to the part, make all your connections with it outside the control cavity. If you mount everything inside the control cavity first, it’ll make things ten times harder. Mount it in the control cavity after you’ve made all your connections.
Safety Tip: Notice that I have a blue microfiber cloth over my guitar in most of the photos. You should cover your guitar as much as possible when doing something like this in case you accidentally drop a part or a tool. This’ll help protect your finish against such accidents.
Mounting the Volume Pot in the Cavity
I’m done making all necessary connections to the volume pot, so I’ll mount it inside the control cavity…
Connecting the Neck Pickup
I’m going to start by connecting my neck pickup, so I strip the neck humbucker’s wires and twist everything together as needed. Once that’s done, I simply follow the wiring diagram and connect each wire to its designated spot on the terminal…
Connecting the Bridge Pickup
The last thing to do is get my bridge pickup wired into the remaining ports on the 5-way switch terminal. Once the wires are in place I tighten them down with the “Little Ass Screwdriver” and give all the wires a gentle tug to ensure everything’s secure.
Almost Done! Time to Test
That’s it! I’m done with all the wiring, so now all that’s left is to test everything and make sure it’s all working as expected, and that there’s no unwanted buzzing or hum. If there is, I’ll have to go back and check my wiring, connections, etc.
So, I tuck all my wires into the control cavity and flip the guitar over. I don’t bother putting the switch tip or volume knob back on yet–just in case I end up having to re-do anything. To test and ensure everything’s working as expected, I plug the guitar into my amp and gently tap the pickup pole pieces with the switch in each of the 5 positions.
Mad Hatter’s Features at a Glance
- A noticeable improvement in tone thanks to top quality, American-made components by CRL, CTS, Switchcraft, and OakGrigsby.
- Entirely solderless.
- 70+ different kits available: various wiring schemes, pickup configurations, switching, push/pull pots, kill switches, and more.
- Easy-to-follow full-color wiring diagrams tell you exactly where everything goes.
- Have a unique wiring configuration in mind? These systems allow complete freedom to do whatever you want. Just email the company and ask–they’re often willing to create a custom wiring diagram for whatever you dream up.
- Awesome customer support. If you run into any issues during installation, just email the company. I’ve always gotten a response within a couple hours or less (sometimes within minutes).
Total Novices: Simply Follow the Included Wiring Diagram
If you consider yourself “electronically challenged” you can simply follow the detailed wiring diagram that’ll come with your system. It’ll tell you exactly where everything goes. If you don’t find a Mad Hatter configuration for what you’re specifically wanting to do, email the company and tell them what you’re after. They might send you a custom wiring diagram at no extra charge (depends on complexity). If you’ve never done electronics work like this before, I highly recommend you read all instructions and watch the company’s installation videos first.
Electronics Gurus: Wire it However You’d Like
On the other hand, if you’re an electronics guru, you have almost total freedom to wire the components any way you’d like, using any wiring diagram available out there… or using your own imagination. The only difference here is that you won’t need a drop of solder to do it. 250k, 500k, 750k, coil-splitting, push/pull pots, kill switches, treble bleeds, exotic capacitors. Sky’s the limit, really.
What Others Are Saying About Mad Hatter
Here’s what some other’s are saying about Mad Hatter’s solderless guitar wiring kits…
Bobby Davis is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means for sites to earn advertising fees by advertising and linking to amazon.com.
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